Red Snapper

Past the Colonade, Atlanta's iconic southern food shrine and further down Cheshire Bridge road, nestled between the strip club Onyx and Cafe Sundown, is a nondescript 2 story brick building which in most cases wouldn't warrant a second glance.   On this occasion however it was on my radar and in my GPS after a family member suggested we visit The Red Snapper restaurant which is on the first floor.  Remembering appearances can be deceiving, I entered a well appropriated dining room which was surprisingly crowded for 5:30 on a Saturday afternoon.

Ok, I will start with the positives.  The staff is very attentive and professional.  Water glasses remained full, plates were removed in a timely fashion, menu items were explained and could be altered according to personal preferences, etc.  And dessert (yes, I am starting with dessert here), was a divine near perfect creme brulee, no annoying egginess, just pure creamy vanilla bliss accentuated by a crisp topping of carmelized sugar, 2 rolled wafer cookies, 2 raspberries and a sprig of mint.

So from the highlights to the stark realities of a less than stellar meal.  Let's begin with the seafood gumbo.  I was immediately put off by the green tint of the soup, most likely the product of a too light roux and file powder.  The taste was ok, a little thick for my tastes but populated with a sumptuous amount of crab meat it was a satisfactory beginning.  On to my entree of Blackened Snapper.  Let's just say the fish was on the verge of being not so fresh.  It had a cloying ammonia laden after taste and the blackened seasoning was bland with a capital "B".  The mixed veggies served on the side (baby carrots, green beans and cauliflower) were crisp and would of been ok if they had been seasoned.  The rice was also devoid of flavor.  I also sampled some veal.  A breaded cutlet in a flavorless lemon butter sauce was utterly forgettable.

Lots of potential in this spot mostly frequented by the 50 and older set (my 7 year old was the only child in the restaurant).  But I'd like to see the kitchen take more risks or just pick up the salt and pepper shakers for a start.  And as a gumbo purist (I learned the craft in Mobile, AL and can throw down with the best) I'm always available to coach them on their gumbo recipe.


Red Snapper, 2100 Cheshire Bridge Road, Atlanta, GA 30324