Empire State of Mind

The farm to table movement has entrenched itself in a big way in Midtown Atlanta with the addition of Empire State South.  Located at 10th and Jupiter (parking is in the Hotel Midtown parking deck), this place is going whole hog (I mean that literally) to woo it's clientele.  The decor puts you in mind of a farm house- think dark wood floors, heavy wooden tables and waiters clad in flannel and denim.  Perhaps clashing were the business people in suits and ties or perhaps that added to its country chic.  But enough all ready about the aesthetics, the real winner here is the food.

I ordered pan seared trout with a bacon vinaigrette, fingerling potatoes with grainy mustard and shallots and collard greens.  Wow.  The fish was perfectly cooked, free of bones and stream fresh.  The tart and slightly sweet vinaigrette peppered with chopped bits of smoky bacon were a stunning pair.  My most pleasant surprise were the potatoes.  I was wary about ordering them to begin with since many dishes I have ordered with grainy mustard as an ingredient, have proven to be overpowered by the pungency of the mustard with the other ingredients lost in the fray.  Not these potatoes, the mustard was a mild accent to the sauteed shallots and perfectly cooked potatoes.  So yummy.  And the collard greens- perfection.  Cooked to a perfect consistency, spiked with a ham hock and a mild sweetness indicative of an addition of sugar.  I could stop there especially with the piece of grilled cornbread that accompanied my meal, but the dessert menu beckoned and having lusted after the pecan bourbon pie set in front of patrons next to my table, I dug into some more Southern goodness.  Crunchy pecans, a sweet yet not cloying filling and fresh whipped cream topped off a magnificent Southern, locally sourced feast.  A menu with limited options allows the kitchen to focus on a few dishes made with the seasonal bounty of the farm and makes Empire State South a worthy addition to the Atlanta dining scene.
www.empirestatesouth.com